#120 Travel Like a Turtle
Slow travel to enjoy the autumn leave season in the south of the Tohoku region by local train.
Japan has an annual public contest for traffic safety slogans to reduce traffic fatalities, and 51 years ago, the Prime Minister's Award, a prestigious prize, was awarded to the slogan "Small Japan, so much hurry, where you go," which has stuck with me. Originally intended as a warning against speeding, I believe it applies to modern rail travel as well, with the development of the bullet train network. Most overseas travelers want to see Japan's sights in the most efficient way possible. However, you may have forgotten something wherever you pass by in your haste. You may also find something new to treasure on your trip to Japan.
This week, I propose a wallet-friendly trip to the southern Tohoku region using the "Autumn Unlimited Ride Pass," which is on sale this autumn for those who have some time to spare. The pass's validity period ends in the middle of the autumn leaves front, moving southward through the Tohoku region. Still, you may see beautiful fall foliage on this date depending on future temperatures.
What is the Autumn Unlimited Ride Pass?
Period of Sale and Use and Fees
This ticket is on sale in honor of October 14, Railroad Day. It will be on sale until October 18 and can be used for three consecutive days from October 5 to October 20. The fee is 7,850 yen. Therefore, the maximum period of use is three days from Friday, October 18. However, the cost is extremely low despite some restrictions.
How to Use
You can purchase an "Autumn Unlimited Ride Pass" at JR ticket offices, station travel centers, or from reserved-seat ticket machines at some JR East stations.
Where You Can Use
This pass can be used on all JR lines throughout Japan but not with all Shinkansen lines and limited express or express trains. If you wish to ride an express train, you need a separate express ticket. Using this pass with a limited express ticket or a Shinkansen limited express ticket is prohibited. You can use this pass for green cars with unreserved seats by paying a separate fee, but you can't use it for reserved seats. Please be careful.
Notes
The period of use is three consecutive days. If you have a rough idea of where you will go during the three days, consulting with the JR ticket offices at the station would be better. However, since we do not know how many English-speaking staff are available, I recommend you go to the counter at large terminal stations such as Tokyo, Shinjuku, and Shibuya.
Concept of Itinerary Planning
Based on the premise of a three-day trip by connecting local trains, it would be easy to consider the first and last days as travel days and the second day as a middle day to visit sightseeing spots. The maximum distance from Tokyo by major local train lines would be 300 to 350 kilometers. Cities that fit this concept are Sendai (Tohoku Main Line and Joban Line), Niigata (Takasaki Line, Joetsu Line, Shinetsu Main Line, and the names of the lines change for each section), and Nagoya (Tokaido Main Line and Chuo Main Line).
The train stops at each station require multiple transfers to reach the destination, and some sections have extremely short transfer times, so it is advisable to have a plan B for such cases.
Model Course (Tokyo - Fukushima - Aizuwakamatsu - Tadami - Tokyo)
Even after writing this far, knowing what kind of itinerary to make may be challenging. Since the pass is valid until Sunday, October 20, which coincides with the early season of autumn leaves in some places, I have created an itinerary to visit the southern Tohoku region in three days. Since extra trains will run and many areas will be congested with tourists who come to see the autumn leaves, I have chosen October 17 (Thu.) to 19 (Sat.) as the dates.
Itinerary
Day 1
Instead of using the Tohoku Main Line for the entire trip, you will use the Suigun Line from Mito along the Kuji River through the mountains of Ibaraki and Fukushima prefectures. This single-track line, which needs to be electrified, is a typical local line lost in Japan. On the way, you stop at Fukuroda Falls, which flows through a sizeable four-story rock formation. It would be a sure thing to take a cab to and from the waterfall when you arrive at the Fukuroda station. Please be on time as the next train is only two hours away. If you miss the train, you may not be able to get to Fukushima on the same day.
The reason for choosing Fukushima as a lodging is that you may stay at Iizaka Onsen or elsewhere. Considering the next day, there is an option to get off at Nihonmatsu and stay at Dake Onsen. Also, since the departure from Tokyo Station is very early, it would be wise to stay in the Tokyo or Ueno area.
Day 2
The day's highlight will be Mt. Adatara, famous for its beautiful autumn leaves. The nearest station is Nihonmatsu, and since few buses are on the route, a cab and cable car combination is available. Reservations are only available by phone(TEL.0243-22-1155/Showa Taxi), so you must ask a Japanese friend or agent. This section lasts about three hours, depending on how long you want to stay, but please adjust your walking time around the summit station depending on the remaining time.
The section from Koriyama to Aizu-Wakamatsu offers a majestic view of Mt. Bandai. Please be careful when taking pictures, as the mountain can be seen on the right side of the train in the direction of travel. If you take the train as scheduled, you will arrive at Aizuwakamatsu at 15:20. If possible, you would like to visit Tsurugajo Castle. You have to be there before 4:30 p.m. to enter. You can visit the castle until 5:00 p.m. So you'd better take a cab to save time from the station.
Day 3
The main event of Day 3 is a ride on the Tadami Line, a 130-km-long local train line that runs through the heavy snowfall areas of Fukushima and Niigata prefectures. This local train line is an essential means of transportation for residents, as the national highway in the area is closed in winter due to snow. On the other hand, it is trendy among local train fans because it runs through a gorge with scenic autumn leaves.
Since boarding is on Saturdays during the autumn leave season, you must take a nonreserved seat on this train, as extra trains are available. This pass is invalid for reserved tickets, so sometimes you cannot be seated. After a long train ride in the mountains, the train arrives at Koide, the gateway to the Niigata Prefecture side. Since there is a poor transit connection and it will take about two hours for the next connection, eating some local soba (buckwheat noodles) would be a good idea to fill up your stomach. After leaving Koide, it is a straight line to Tokyo. Because of the detour from Aizuwakamatsu, the train will arrive at Tokyo Station at 22:00.
“Noritetsu” and “Toritetsu”
In Japan, where there are many railroad fans, there are two terms: "noritetsu" and "toritetsu." Noritetsu are railfans who like to ride trains, and toritetsu are railfans who are crazy about taking photographs of trains. This pass is a ticket for such "noritetsu," who have no trouble riding trains from early morning until late at night. The latter are train photographers and are pretty hardcore. In search of rare trains, they carry expensive cameras and take pictures at the front and back of station platforms. Sometimes, this escalates to almost causing an accident, leading to trouble with passengers and social problems.
Finally
I have proposed an itinerary for the early autumn leaves season this time, using a limited-time pass. Although I have created this itinerary to introduce this pass, visiting Fukushima Prefecture during the autumn leave season is worthwhile. I hope you will incorporate the destinations I mentioned in your itinerary and have a wonderful autumn trip. Adatara Mountain is not impossible to visit in a day if you combine the Shinkansen with a rental car. Fukushima City has several famous hot springs, such as Iizaka Onsen and Takayu Onsen so that you can combine them with such elements. This year, the sudden drop in temperature in October will bring colorful autumn leaves.
*Some websites do not have dedicated English versions, so please use your browser's translate function when viewing them in Japanese.