#107 The ultimate hot spring

One of the rare, treasurable, unexplored hot springs in eastern Japan

Last weekend, I had an opportunity to visit a hidden hot spring in Yamagata Prefecture, and as I have written several times on JapanAtoZ, I am a big fan of hot springs. I am especially fond of cloudy sulfur springs, and no matter how busy I am, I visit Nasu Yumoto in Tochigi Prefecture several times a year. I don't remember why I took my grandfather to this hidden, hot spring 30 years ago, but I think it was because I wanted him to take a bath in the wild, which he had never been to before, as he loved traveling. I wanted my grandfather, who loved to travel, to bathe in a wild place he had never been before. I remember that he was delighted with the trip, even though he said it was tough. This time, a friend from Yamagata was reluctant to go with me because of the rugged mountain roads on the way. It was a tough drive for my friend but a memorable trip for me. I appreciate that he took me to this hot spring thirty years after my last visit. I'd like to know what kind of place this hot spring is.

Ubayu at Masugataya(There used to be a large outside shared bath, but now there are several baths so that women can take their baths separately.

What is "hidden hot springs"?

Generally speaking, hidden hot springs are deep in the mountains or at the tip of a cape, where access is limited, and people do not come and go. However, with the recent boom in hidden hot springs, the number of "hidden hot springs" that are not as hidden as they originally appeared is rising. Some of today's "hidden hot springs" are located in somewhat inaccessible areas but are adjacent to inns and other facilities that provide amenities.

Ibusuki Hot Spring is in Kagoshima Prefecture. In my experience, it is one of the best in terms of the quality of the spring water and the atmosphere.

In Japan, there is an organization called the "Association for the Protection of Japan's Hidden Hot Springs," a strong organization that tries to protect Japan's hot spring culture. This organization was established by people who felt threatened that the essence of travel and humanity was being left behind during Japan's period of rapid economic growth, and is now working to protect the diversity of Japan's hot spring culture amid the current trend toward the "supremacy of onsen with hot-spring water." Although this organization does not have an English website, you can use the translation function to find a hot spring accommodation that belongs to this association.

Why I love unexplored hot spring

So, why am I so immersed in unexplored hot springs? Onsen facilities comprise all elements, such as accommodations, services, hot spring water quality, and the baths' atmosphere. Still, when all these options are eliminated, the only thing that remains is the hot water and the bath environment. I want to enjoy it. Therefore, the journey to the secluded hot spring is included in this process, and from the moment I leave home to the moment I return home, it is an essential part of this process. If it is said that this is a religion, that is all there is to it, but that is how much I love baths and, even more so, hidden hot springs.

UBAYU

To begin with, Ubayu is the deepest and most challenging to access of the eight hidden, hot springs located deep in the mountains on the border with Fukushima Prefecture in Yonezawa City in southern Yamagata Prefecture. For details, please visit the website of "Yonezawa Hachito." Among them, Ubayu is located deep in the mountains at an altitude of 1,300 meters and is surrounded by broad-leaved trees, so the fresh greenery in spring and the autumn leaves in fall are spectacular. The ryokan, Masugataya, was recently rebuilt, and although the price is high due to the time and effort required to transport supplies, it offers a comfortable stay.

There is a newly built lodge where you can stay comfortably.

"Ubayu" is a hot spring like a hell valley where rocky surfaces are exposed deep in the Yonezawa City, Yamagata Prefecture mountains. The temperature of the spring is 51 degrees Celsius, and the spring water is simple acid sulfur spring water, which is not watered or heated. The smell of sulfur spring water is often described as "like rotten eggs," once you fall in love with this unique spring quality, you will surely be captivated by it. So that you know, the smell will not leave your body for a week after you have bathed several times.

There are multiple open-air baths and indoor baths. The open-air baths in the valley are full of wildness.

The absolute pleasure of this hot spring

The best thing about this cloudy, hot spring is that the water never gets cold. Even in the middle of winter, when you warm yourself in this hot spring water, your body will sweat and not cool down quickly. In spring or fall, you can stay in the hot spring forever, and you will surely forget the passage of time in the rocky terrain of the valley, which is like a hell valley.

You can experience this sulfur spring in Japan and the following places in the Kanto area.

• Hakone Onsen: It is located in western Kanagawa Prefecture, close to Mt. Fuji. Recently, it has become a popular spot for foreign travelers due to its easy accessibility and the view of Mt. Fuji. It is less than two hours from Tokyo by train, making it an excellent access point.

• Kusatsu Onsen: It is 220 km northwest of Tokyo, near the border with Nagano Prefecture, about 4 hours by highway bus or train and bus. Kusatsu Onsen is famous for its hot spring-related attractions, such as Yubatake (hot spring fields) and Yumomi. It has recently become popular among young people and foreigners because of its excellent dining, shopping facilities, and hot springs. As a single hot spring resort, there is a wide range of choices, from ryokans to hotels.

  

  Yubatake at Kusatsu Onsen

• Nasu Yumoto Onsen: Located 200 km northeast of Tokyo, it takes about 2 hours by bus and the Tohoku Shinkansen. The area is less touristy than Hakone or Kusatsu, and its guest house district retains its old-fashioned atmosphere.

  

  Takinoyu at Nasu Yumoto Onsen. Only guests staying at the hot spring's guest house can enter. The general public is not permitted to enter the hot spring because they are given a key to enter the inn.

If the Ubayu hot springs discussed in this post are too far away, but you would like to try sulfur spring water with easy access from Tokyo, please consider the above hot spring resorts. Please note that these hot springs are highly acidic, so be careful if you have sensitive skin.

Things to remember when visiting Ubayu

1. Open date: It is closed during winter; it will close on November 5, 2024. Please call or check the website before visiting.

2. Where to start: JR Fukushima Station is the starting point. Fukushima City is conveniently located 1.5 hours from Tokyo by Shinkansen, and the number of Shinkansen stops at Fukushima.

   

3. Driving from Tokyo: It is also possible to drive from Tokyo on the Tohoku Expressway, but considering the 250 km distance and traffic congestion on the return trip, it would pay off for a group of four but would be more burdensome for a smaller group. In addition, as explained later, you will be using a light car with a small width, so driving from Tokyo in a light vehicle is not recommended, as the car will be underpowered.

4. Ideal vehicle to hire: You will use a light car with a maximum width of 148 cm. The road to the hot springs is exceptionally narrow, and even a mini car can barely pass each other. The width of a compact car is 170 cm, but there were many places where even compact vehicles could not pass each other. When renting a mini-car, renting a car in the Fukushima Station area is best. An international driver's license, passport, and credit card are required to drive a rental car. Also, before departure, could you confirm that you can drive in Japan with an international driver's license from your country?

   

   It would be best if you came with a smaller vehicle than the one in the front of the picture. When you arrange a rental car, please arrange for a light vehicle with the narrowest width.

5. Access route: From Fukushima City, drive National Route 13 toward Yonezawa, and immediately after crossing the Fukushima-Yamagata border, turn left onto a forest road. The distance from Fukushima Station is less than 40 km. It takes about one and a half hours. Namekawa Onsen is located before Ubayu. There are only Japanese signposts along the way, so you will have to rely on the car navigation system on your cell phone. As mentioned earlier, the road is extremely narrow, and most places have no curved mirrors, so please drive carefully to avoid oncoming cars. In addition, there is a shoulder, and one side of the road is cut off like a cliff, so delicate vehicle sense is required. People who need more confidence in their driving skills should not go there. The small type of vehicle used during the visit is essential.

6. Visiting hours: "Masugataya," which manages the hot spring, has announced that opening hours for visiting guests are from 09:30 to 15:30, so if you are not staying overnight, you need to adjust your visit to these hours. The best time to visit Masugataya is in the morning when all the overnight guests have gone home and before the arrival of the day's guests, around 15:00, that is, from noon to around 14:00, when there is the fewest number of cars.

7. Taxi: Some people may consider taking a cab from Fukushima Station, but the cab fare will be expensive because of the bad road conditions, the possibility of being refused by a driver, and the need to keep a car waiting while bathing.

8. Train: There is a shuttle service from Toge Station on the Ou Honsen line, but it is only for staying guests. However, there are only six trains daily from Fukushima Station, and not all are available, so please check with Masugataya. The walk from the Toge station is 8 km or about 2 hours on foot.

Finally

As you can imagine, getting into this hot spring is so tough. It is hard to imagine how many foreign visitors to Japan would be willing to go that far to visit this hot spring, but for those who are "hidden hot spring fans," it is a place you would want to see at least once. The hurdle is relatively high for those from overseas, as it requires renting a car and driving on steep, though paved, mountain roads. Even if you take the train, be prepared to walk 16 km round trip. However, it is worth carefully preparing if you are determined to visit. It is an entirely different value of experience.