#26 My autumn retreat
Seeking the silence and the fresh air of autumn in Japanese mountain.
We had a relatively long Indian summer and the temperature stayed as high as 30 degrees until recently, but cool autumn air started coming from the north and I feel that autumn has finally arrived. I have focused on more technical issues such as how we look at the situation of the domestic tourism market and autumn leaves previous weeks. When you check websites about Japan, there are hundreds of tempting pictures and explanations how not to miss this season. It is a wonderful season, but I personally feel that it is also a difficult season to avoid “crowds” wherever you go to tourist attractions. In this newsletter I will write about one of my secret places which I really love to visit twice a year. If you want to share, please spare just a couple of minutes with me. I took all the photos about the same time two years ago
.This week I will focus on Mt Kinpu (2,599M) located on the Chichibu mountain range in the west of Tokyo. The characteristics of this mountain are high altitude, vegetation and magnificent views from the top. I will get into more details about each characteristic of the mountain.
Altitude: This 2,599M altitude marks the 125th highest mountain in Japan and it is not one of the highest, but has enough elements of geographical diversity, suitable walking distance and fulfilling a bit of your temptation to conquering the summit.
Vegetation: Starting at the elevation of 1,574M all the way to the top, you can enjoy the vertical change of different vegetations. That’s why I mentioned that I would like to visit twice a year, new green leaves and autumn leaves season.
Views: It’s not one of the highest, but high enough to enjoy the magnificent views from the top because of isolated peak. When the weather is good, you can see Mt Fuji to the south of the peak. I always enjoy this mountain when it comes to choosing a meaningful day hike.
Before getting into more details, there are essential points to use my route.
You have to be a very early bird starting to climb at 07:00 in the morning.
It is essential to arrange your own transportation.
You have to be ready 1,000M ascend and descend in one day.
Avoid using this route on weekends.
Approach to Mawarime-daira
The starting point is Mawarime-daira which is a sacred place for climbers and this place is very cozy so that it tends to be congested with climbers and campers during the season. There are restrictions on the amount of vehicles to enter and admission fee is necessary. If you are using a public transport, you have to spare lots of time.
Staying overnight at Mawarime-daira itself is pleasant. So if you have enough time, traveling here on day 1 and climb Mt Kinpu on day 2. If you really don’t have time and you can drive, you can do it in one long day.
Walking on the path through the forest
The initial part of walking on the path is quite pleasant along side with the crystal clear stream. But mind your foot since there are lots of unstable rocks. This will continue for one hour and there is a junction which you should go straight and go across the stream.
Through deep in primeval forest
After this point you will get into deep into the forest and the path gets steeper and steeper. You will enjoy the different vegetation. Rhododendron will be seen during early summer in June. After struggling more or less than two hours you will reach a hut which is 180m below the summit. This hut is covered by the trees, but I presume that it gets strong northern wind in winter because of the location.
The last ditch to the summit
You may struggle to finish the last ditch due to the steepness and rocky surface of the path. When I climbed, I didn’t feel that I was gaining fast enough and felt longer than the course time. All of your effort will be paid off when you reach the summit. There is a huge basalt dome on the top of the mountain and we tend to think that the triangulation point is there, but it isn’t. You still need to climb a little bit to the summit.
This dome is called “Gojo-iwa” and Goji-iwa is a sacred place. There are people climbing it, but this place should not be climbed. This is because the 2500 square metres around the rock is the private property of the Kanazakura Shrine. So obviously it is a private property. There is a sign which explains why this rock is restricted.
<Course Time> As of October 2020
Mawarime-daira (07:00) ---Junction of Hacyodaira (08:00/08:15) ---Kinpu-San Hut (10:15/10:30) ---Summit of Mt Kinpu (11:00/12:05) —-Kinpu-san Hut (12:30/No break) --- Junction of Hacyodaira (13:45/1400) ---Mawarime-daira (15:00)
Location Data
Mawarime-daira: 35.908505,138.641324
Junction of Hacyodaira: 35.890471,138.616691
Kinpu-san Hut: 35.874337,138.622999
Summit of Mt Kinpu: 35.871429,138.625317
Personally, I love this route since it is so quiet, even though you have to walk long hours. Alternatively, you can save time and effort using Odarumi-pass using a shuttle bus. Odarumi-pass is the highest pass in Japan accessible by car and the elevation is 2,365M. This route enables you to reach the summit in two hours from the pass since you really don’t have to ascend. The difference of the altitude Mt Kinpu and Odarumi-pass is 250m and you will walk on ridge line. The shuttle bus service operates weekends and national holiday only from the beginning of June to the end of October. There are two buses from Enzan Station at 07:30 and 09:00, and returning bus from Odarumi-pass leave 15:00 and 16:16. These bus services are subject to change because of the road condition and the weather. Your activities may be restricted due to the bus schedule.
I wanted to share the link here, but the site isn't secured, so that I will put the telephone number of the company called Eiwa Kotsu based in Enzan City. The number is +81-553-26-4546. I checked the rest of this season and it is getting booked. So vacancies are limited.
It's really difficult to find a quiet, cozy place during the limited autumn season on the mountain. But you will able to find it if you choose the right timing and place with a bit of a different angle.
Another great informative article Hideo. Judging by the photos it looks like beautiful hiking ! And a good physical challenge. (Just checked my Japan map to find location of Chichbu Tama National Park).
I’ve just bought a ticket to Japan and hoping to do some hiking in November; as yet undecided where to go … preferably somewhere where I can camp and enjoy a relaxing onsen….