#53 Where to experience the 'Good Old Tokyo'

Experience the drinking life in an authentic traditional downtown bar in Tokyo on a budget

Visitors to Japan who have had the opportunity to travel to the country more than once, definitely have an advantage in gaining local perspectives. An intimate knowledge of Japanese food, clothing, and housing habits provides a familiarity with the culture that can only be gained through experience. While the country's tourist attractions are always popular, they can also be somewhat predictable. For those looking to dive deeper into the culture, exploring lesser-known areas can provide a shortcut to experiencing everyday life in Japan. For example, the term "Good Old Tokyo" refers to places that represent the city's history and traditional way of life. However, these places are becoming increasingly difficult to identify, making it even more important to visit them before they disappear entirely.

This week, I want to introduce you to some of my favorite spots in town where you can still feel the "Good Old Tokyo".

Tateishi Nakamise is one of the most central places in Tateishi. From delicatessens to small bars, there are lots of authentic shops.

Good old downtown in Tokyo

It has been nearly 80 years since the end of World War II, and most of the houses were burnt down by the aerial bombardment in downtown Tokyo during the war. There are some places, which still preserve memories of the old downtown in Tokyo. There were many houses, which disappeared with the development of the area, but Katsushika Ward is one of the places that still preserve the atmosphere. For the generation that lived through the Showa period, which became the post-war period, there is a special atmosphere that makes them feel at home whenever they come.

On the other hand, recent trends in foreign visitors have shown that these areas were favored by a certain core group of fans, including some tours called “Tokyo Gourmet Walking Tours”. Yanaka Shopping Street, which is within walking distance from Nippori Station is well-known and popular, but it may not be enough for those who are searching for a deeper and older atmosphere simply because Yanaka has become too popular.

Tateishi, an alternative downtown in Tokyo

Today I would like to focus on the Tateishi shopping arcade. It takes 25 minutes from Shimbashi (新橋) to Keisei Tateishi (京成立石) with the Toei Asakusa Line.

Keisei Tateishi is located in the north-east of central Tokyo.

This shopping arcade is attached to Keisei Tateishi Station. This area is very famous for the Shibamata Taishakuten which is about 4 km northeast of this station. The Tateishi Station Street Shopping Association is a shopping street consisting of 58 shops extending north-south on the west side of Keisei Tateishi Station.

Source: Katsushika Ward Merchant Federation

In the words of their website, the area is a friendly downtown area, where prices have always been low, and it is also a very comfortable place to live.

The shops include a traditional delicatessen, a butcher, a confectioner and a diner, a daily necessities shop, a clothing shop, and most of what is needed for daily life. It's not a big place, but it maintains the atmosphere of a good old downtown, which I like very much. It’s genuine and unaltered. I would even call it authentic. You will feel it if you just walk into the shop and exchange a few words.

A toy shop selling traditional Japanese toys for kids

What is Senbero? Get drunk cheap in an authentic downtown bar.

Have you heard the word, Senbero (せんべろ)? It is a combination of two words: "sen" which means "1000" and "bero" which comes from “berobero” meaning "drunk". Senbero literally translates to “1000 yen drunk”, meaning a cheap drinking place where you can get drunk for only 1000 yen. It is a kind of slang used amongst tipplers and typical businessmen.

I used to go to Senbero a lot before. In most places, the payment system is simple. You put your deposit in a small box or plate and make your order. A shop master gives you back the change in that box with your drink or food. When the balance runs short, you just add money to your deposit. And in most cases, they are standing bar style. You will be drunk before you can put in a deposit of more than 2000 yen. This is the reason why we call it Senbero.

This wallet-friendly system enables us to barhop easily regardless of our budget. You must keep in your mind that the drink and food menu is very simple. Beer, sake, shochu (Japanese distilled spirit), and shochu highball are the main drinks that are served there. Yakitori (Japanese grilled chicken skewers) and other simple food are the most you can expect. I think the space of the bar may be the main issue since most bars are very small. Some of them only accommodate three to four people.

I got into too much on Senbero. But Tateishi is also home for Senbero. There are several bars already open in the mid-afternoon. These two are ones highly evaluated and you will see long queues.

Best Senbero in Tateishi — recommendations

• Uchida: Motsuyaki (which means roasted giblet)

  

• Sakae-sushi: Standing sushi

  

  *note: Be prepared to wait in long queues at both shops.

You may ask me if you really must travel to Tateishi to experience Senbero. No, you can find similar bars in Shinbashi if you want to stay closer to your hotel. Shinbashi Ekimae Building is located on the opposite side of Shinbashi Station and you’ll find lots of small bars which are equivalent to Sembero bars. Bars are located inside the business building, and the setting is a bit different from Tateishi. But you still can enjoy the atmosphere.

*note: The link for searching Senbero bars (Japanese Only)

Senbero bars are disappearing due to redevelopment

The redevelopment in the Tateishi area is no exception. In the Tateishi Station area, urban redevelopment preparatory associations made up of rightsholders in the South Exit East, South Exit West, and North Exit districts are studying urban development in their respective areas.

Elevated construction work is also underway on the Keisei Oshiage Line between Yotsugi and Aoto, which is currently scheduled for completion at the end of 2030.

Elevated construction work is underway at Tateishi Station to facilitate traffic between north and south of the station

Various twists and turns are expected before the series of construction works are completed, but in particular, once the redevelopment projects around the stations are completed, it will be difficult for the existing shopping areas to maintain their current form. In other words, if you want to enjoy the current atmosphere, now is the time.

For an authentic traditional experience, visit now!

There are many different opinions on the question of where the best place for a good old downtown Tokyo is. Yanaka is perhaps at the top of the list of destinations visited by overseas tourists these days. However, as a resident of Tokyo, I would like to say that it is time to re-evaluate the value of Tateishi, which is being swallowed up by the wave of redevelopment.

What are some of your favorite downtown areas that still feel authentic where you are from? Are they changing due to redevelopment or gentrification? Let me know by writing in the comment!