#63 Sumida River Fireworks Festival
First time in four years after the pandemic and my personal experience attending it
The Sumida River Fireworks Festival, Tokyo's most famous summer event, has made a comeback after a four-year hiatus due to the pandemic. The venue was packed with enthusiastic attendees, including many foreign tourists. In this newsletter, I'll share my personal experience of attending the event, capturing the lights and shadows of the festival, and why you may also want to consider attending a fireworks festival yourself.
Cultural Context and History
Why is the firework in Japan in the middle of summer?
Fireworks in Japan are traditionally held in the middle of summer, which is unique compared to many other countries where fireworks are often associated with winter events like New Year's Eve.
The tradition dates back to the Edo period (1603-1867) when a water god festival took place on the Sumida River in 1733. During that time, the Kansai and Edo regions were grappling with famine and epidemics, leading to numerous deaths.
To commemorate the deceased and drive out the plague, a firework display was organized. Over time, this practice gained popularity, and numerous skilled pyrotechnicians emerged, competing with each other to create spectacular displays. The common people of Edo embraced this awe-inspiring spectacle, and launching fireworks became a standard feature of river-opening ceremonies.
Also, the hot and humid climate of Japan played a role in anchoring fireworks displays as a cherished part of the evening cool-down culture. People would gather to watch the fireworks while enjoying the refreshing night breeze.
A Brief History of the Sumida River Fireworks Festival
The Sumida River Fireworks Festival dates back to the Edo period, which originally started as a river opening festival known as the "Ryogoku no Kawabiraki" in 1733. It was revived in 1978 under the current name "Sumida River Fireworks Festival". Today, it is recognized throughout Japan as one of the nation's best fireworks festivals. The event unfolds across two locations, lighting up the night sky with 20,000 fireworks. After a four-year hiatus brought on by the pandemic, the festival made a highly-anticipated return this year.
Attending the festival
Special seating plan
This marks my third time attending the Sumida River Fireworks Festival, and on each occasion, I've applied for the special seating available through a unique program known as the "citizen sponsorship quota". Winners of this lottery gain access to a premium viewing site near the launch area.
This distinctive program, not widely known among the public, offers about 15,000 special seats in two locations along the Sumida River, close to the launch sites. Lottery winners secure these seats in return for a donation, contributing to the support and success of the event.
The most expansive special seating area is situated on a baseball field upstream from the launch site. Upon entry, visitors are provided with wristbands and given 180--square centimetre sheets intended for seating. These sheets can accommodate up to five people, although they are more comfortably suited for four adults. The donation required for this prime location has recently seen a substantial increase, currently standing at 20,000 Yen.
On the Day of the Festival
17:00 Asakusa Station
I tried to arrive two hours before the event, but Asakusa Station on the Ginza Line was packed with people and I could hardly move in the crowds. I saw many people wearing kimonos.
Last week's fireworks display in Adachi Ward attracted 700,000 people, and this week's Sumida River Fireworks Festival officially surpassed that number with 1,035,000 people. As a result, extensive traffic restrictions were put in place around the venue, and tight security was enforced. Spectators were required to keep moving around the venue to prevent accidents caused by crowds of people.
As I positioned myself north of the launch site, I noticed a modest number of international travelers who all had the same questions.
Where should you stand/sit to see the fireworks? How do you get back home while avoiding the crowd? Are there any security measures taken against accidents like the crowd crush accident in Korea?
Why it’s worth seeing it live
The sensory experience of a live fireworks display is simply unparalleled and cannot be captured adequately through a live broadcast. The resounding echo of the fireworks, the scent of gunpowder, and the variety of patterns painted against the night sky are all experiences unique to the occasion. Regardless of the technological advancements we have achieved, nothing can accurately convey this sense of spectacle except attending in person.
It is not difficult to envision the awe that the ordinary citizens of the electricity-free Edo period must have felt as fireworks illuminated the night sky.
I took the following video near the end of the fireworks display when the excitement of the audience was at its peak.
The Sumida River fireworks festival was held at Asakusa, where and other popular spots for overseas visitors, in an extremely space-poor location in downtown Tokyo. While it is a wonderful show that appeals to all of our senses, it also entails several problems.
The festival takes place in Asakusa, among other popular spots in downtown Tokyo that are frequently visited by international tourists, in an extremely space-constrained urban environment, which naturally comes with a set of challenges.
Challenges Surrounding the Festival
Displacement after the Event
Though no serious accidents occurred this time, thanks to the diligent efforts of security personnel, post-event overcrowding at main train stations made it challenging for many attendees to return home. Personally, my journey home took nearly three times longer than usual.
Littering Issue
Littering is a persistent issue at large-scale events attracting massive crowds. In Japan, trash cans are typically not installed at train stations to prevent overflow, a strategy that proved inadequate during this event since I saw people dumping litter in unrelated areas.
Preventing Crowd Crush Accidents
Given the tragic memory of an accident that took more than 150 lives at a chess match in downtown Seoul, South Korea, last October, the event organizers encouraged spectators to stay mobile rather than remain stationary to watch the fireworks. However, many attendees either set up rugs or stood still alongside the road to watch the display. I talked with several international tourists who were unaware of these regulations and did not know where they were allowed to watch the fireworks.
Tips to watch safely
There are several ways to watch fireworks safely and easily:
Access to the Skydeck of Tokyo Sky Tree:
Tokyo Skytree provides various viewing events from the Sky Deck and other facilities. Although access is determined by a lottery system, I recommend checking the event details around May.
Houseboats on the Sumida River:
Securing a seat on a houseboat might be challenging, but it will offer the best vantage point for the fireworks display. Prices vary, with some going up to 63,000 yen per person. It is essential to research properly, as early as a year in advance, since seating is highly limited.
Watching from a bit more distance:
This could be an easier option, albeit at the expense of the overall quality of the experience. It does, however, save you from dealing with the crowds. Shioiri Park is a recommended location for this purpose. The recommended place is Shioiri Park.
Getting back home
Getting home early can be a challenge. Leaving early might not be the best option for this particular event, given the crowded roads around the venue. It might be better to wait until the event concludes and then choose the most convenient station. One piece of advice: Avoid Asakusa station. Some potential stations to consider are:
Oshiage Station: Both Tokyo Metro and Toei Subway services are available here. The number of people heading to Tokyo Sky Tree is limited, which improves your chances of getting a train. It's also the closest to the Asakusa area.
Ueno Station: It takes about an hour's walk from Asakusa and it is easy. You just keep walking to the west.
Minami-Senju Station: It's roughly the same distance as Ueno. If you're north of Asakusa, this might be a viable option.
Final Thoughts
Is it worth it for foreign tourists visiting Japan to attend the Sumida River Fireworks Festival? As a Japanese person, fireworks festivals hold a special significance, and I always recommend them to my friends. However, the final decision should be based on factors like the length of your stay, physical stamina, and budget, among others.