#96 Japanese Macaques "Snow Monkeys"
Tips for observing the ecology of Japanese macaques in Hell Valley during the harsh winter.
This is the 96th newsletter, and it is very late. I'm sorry, but I want to apologize here. I was on a temporary spring guiding mission, guiding a group from the UK for three days in Nagano, the Mt. Fuji area, and Hakone.
As a guide welcoming guests from abroad, I know spring is hectic. The blooming of cherry blossoms is the most significant factor, but after guiding this time, I realized there are unexpected tourist attractions. As I learned more, I discovered that certain animals have become a significant catalyst for regional development.
This time, I would like to write about the Japanese macaques that live in a remote hot spring resort in Nagano. You may have seen pictures of Japanese macaques relaxing in hot springs in the snowy weather. I want to write about these monkeys.
An hour's drive from Nagano city, passing through Yudanaka Onsen, which has a history of more than 1,000 years, and about a 30-minute' walk from the parking lot of Kanbayashi Onsen along a forest path with poor footing, you will find a paradise for Japanese macaques. The "Jigokudani Yaen-koen" is located in a place that reminds one of hell, with hot spring steam rising from various locations.
The park has a history of 60 years and is well known to many people as a place where they can observe the ecology of Japanese macaques known as "snow monkeys" throughout the year. I have frequently gone skiing and visited Nozawa and Shiga Kogen, but I only paid a little attention to this public park, even though I knew of its existence. However, with the rapid increase in inbound demand, so-called "iconic Japanese spots" around Japan came into the limelight via social media, and from around 2010, the percentage of foreigners visiting the park increased because they could see wild Japanese macaques up close, even in the open-air baths during the harsh winter months. Currently, the number of foreign tourists exceeds the number of Japanese.
Last weekend, I took my guests from the UK to Jigokudani Yaen-koen. It was the first time I had visited there. On the 6th, we left Tokyo in the morning by a big bus, visited Zenkoji Temple in Nagano City, and finally went to Jigokudani Yaen-koen. The most crucial point of the three-day tour was whether or not we could see the Japanese macaque monkeys. Considering the worst-case scenario, I included this in my explanation and told the guests that there would not always be monkeys. As it turned out, my fears were unfounded, and when we visited the park, they offered food for the monkeys to eat, so I was able to satisfy my guests by being surrounded by many monkeys. At the same time, however, we could not see the typical situation of many monkeys bathing in a hot spring, as seen on posters and SNS.
To see Japanese monkeys in this place, you need to know many things, especially if you are going on an independent trip, and you need to prepare more carefully than you can imagine.
Visiting Period
Although the park is open all year round, the Japanese macaques only bathe in the open-air baths during the cold season from December to March. This time, we visited on a warm day in April, but the monkeys were not bathing. In short, the monkeys do not need to bathe in April because the outside temperature is higher.
In autumn, the monkeys become emotionally unstable during the mating season and do not come down in the same numbers as in the spring.
In the fresh green season, the monkeys stay in the mountains to enjoy the delicious new buds, and the number of monkeys decreases.
Therefore, if you want to see monkeys with stamina and energy, the best time to see them bathing is during winter. But it should be more adventures in the cold weather.
Access to the site
It is 1.8 km from the parking lot. Although it is called a walking trail, reaching it is challenging unless you are confident in your legs. Older people must also have a certain level of confidence.
There are steep stairs at the end, which should make it more difficult for group tours running on a tight schedule.
The trail is 1.6 kilometers on an unpaved road, so that you will get into the mud. Sandals are not recommended. Waterproof shoes are also necessary in case of rain, as the footholds are not good.
In winter, the trail becomes icy and slippery in addition to snow, so light crampons or other non-slip shoes are necessary in conjunction with very warm clothes.
Strict adherence to manners
Even though monkeys are entirely unafraid of people, specific manners are necessary. Please keep a minimum distance from the monkeys to not startle them.
Visitors are not allowed to give them food.
Pets such as dogs and cats are not allowed.
The park does not dare to feed the monkeys at a particular time. This is because the monkeys are sometimes around at different times of the day.
Saviors of the local community
Locals say these monkeys are famous among European and United States tourists. Recently, they have become trendy among Southeast Asian tourists, such as Singaporeans. The nearby Yudanaka Onsen, as well as Nozawa and Togari hot spring resorts, a little further away, had been experiencing sluggish growth in visitor numbers before the rise in inbound demand, and the whole area was in a state of great crisis as if the land had sunk to its lowest point. The popularity of the monkeys has led to a surge in visitors, and the area has come back to life, thanks in no small part to the power of social networking services.
Finally
Before you visit, please read the notes on the website, which include brochures in Japanese, English, and Chinese. Again, please take a look at the following.
Monkeys are not always around.
Hot springs are one way monkeys survive harsh winters, and they do not bathe in the warm season.
Of course, humans are not allowed to take a bath with them.
The route to the park is not wheelchair-accessible due to unpaved roads and stairs.
No food or beverages are sold at the site.
No selfie sticks are allowed in the park, as they stress the monkeys.
The park is open most of the time but may close without notice. Please be sure to check the situation on the website.
Please be aware that the park is not a zoo but a place where monkeys come by their wills.
Observing good manners will make your encounter with monkeys even more precious and memorable.
The baby monkey is adorable!