#122 The Town of Artisans
Twin cities in Niigata Prefecture where you will find the spirits of artisans.
What do you associate with Niigata Prefecture, located north of Tokyo? Niigata Prefecture is famous for its rice, as typified by Koshihikari, one of the heaviest snowfall areas in Japan. However, the amount has decreased in recent years due to global warming and the birthplace of Kakuei Tanaka, a statesman of exceptional political stature. On the other hand, a region in the central part of the prefecture has recently been attracting attention from overseas as well. The area commonly referred to as Tsubame-Sanjo, which consists of the cities of Tsubame and Sanjo, has developed since the Edo period as a manufacturing town, and the production of cutlery and Western tableware is thriving. It is a town of many professional artisans, especially those who sharpen knives. Some factories offer hands-on experience, and visitors can experience Japanese culture by visiting a city of artisans. In this post, I am introducing the factory of Gyokusendo, which I visited last week, and I hope to introduce you to a town of artisans that is the pride of Japan.
What is Tsubame-Sanjo?
Although this post also uses the expression "Tsubame-Sanjo," Tsubame-Sanjo City as a municipality currently does not exist. Since the name of the Shinkansen station is also "Tsubame-Sanjo Station," Tsubame-Sanjo is often mistakenly considered a single administrative district. Still, it is divided into Tsubame City and Sanjo City.
Let us return to the town of artisans. This area used to suffer from flood damage from the Shinano River, the longest river in Japan. It flows through the area and is one of the heaviest snowfall areas in Japan, making it difficult to grow crops in the winter. In the Edo period (1603-1867), the manufacture of Japanese nails was recommended for the developing buildings in Edo, and people in this area started winter side jobs. This side job was the starting point for the flourishing of "blacksmithing" in Tsubame-Sanjo, where logistics, materials, and other conditions were favorable. This is how the area came to be known today as a center of metalworking.
Although both cities are known for their hardware, Tsubame specializes in stainless steel products, and Sanjo specializes in iron products. In addition, Tsubame was originally a town of artisans, while Sanjo was a town of merchants, and because of their different backgrounds, there was a feud between the two cities. The Tsubame-Sanjo area is no exception to the problem of declining birthrates and a shrinking population. Regional revitalization through wide-area cooperation is a pressing issue, and a merger of the two cities has been explored.
Access to Tsubame-Sanjo
The Joetsu Shinkansen will take you from Tokyo to Tsubame-Sanjo. The journey takes about 1 hour and 50 minutes, and if you take the Shinkansen before 8:00 a.m., you can be there before 10:00 a.m. By car, the distance is about 300 km. The trip by car would take about 300 km, or about 4 hours, within a day trip range. The factories are scattered around Tsubame-Sanjo Station, so it would be better to take a cab from the station if you have a few places to visit. You can also rent a car to drive around the area. You can check out possible touring factories in Sanjo and Tsubame.
Gyokusendo
I visited Gyokusendo, one of the many factories producing "hammered copperware." Originally a copper mine in the area during the Edo period, which became a booming industry, Niigata Prefecture is the sole producer of hammered copperware, designated a traditional craft by the Minister of International Trade and Industry in 1981.
The process is simple but requires delicate techniques and patience cultivated over many years. To make a seamless product, striking a single sheet of copper takes a lot of work to mass-produce. Although you might imagine that striking a single copper sheet will cause it to stretch, the technique of hammered copperware is said to shrink the sheet as copper is hammered.
Copper is said to be hammered over 10,000 times to create a single piece. The company has been in business for more than 200 years, and the current president is the seventh generation. In its long history, the company has experienced wars but has continued its traditions.
The company's main product is kettles, but it also produces many other items, such as teapots and beer glasses. When I visited, a young American customer was negotiating a business deal with the company. The prices are surprisingly high, but the process, time, and effort make it worth it. The following video explains their work and is quoted from Gyokusendo HP.
Process
The copper plate becomes hard when it is stricken. The process involves tapping at least 10,000 times until completion. Each time the copper plate is tapped, it becomes harder and shrinks. The copper sheet is tapped to the mouth of the kettle, called "Kuchi-Uchi Dashi." The hardened copper sheet is then fired to fine-tune its shape. The copper is then pounded using countless metal fittings called "atagane" and hammers. Twenty craftsmen are working at Gyokusendo. In a large room with a high ceiling for soundproofing, hammering copper echoes from 8:30 in the morning until 5:30 in the evening. The roles of the artisans are very flexible, and the work changes daily. It is a daunting task to watch. However, the more you use it, the more it gains luster and flavor. The factory is about 2 km from Tsubame-Sanjo Station. Reaching the factory takes less than 30 minutes, even if you take a leisurely walk.
Once the shape is completed, the final step is the surface coloring process, which can produce completely different tints by changing the type of chemical. The above photos are samples. The most popular color these days is “purple-gold,” a purple with blackish tints(used in the cover photo), which looks very different depending on the light.
The case of Tojiro, a kitchen knife factory
Some Japanese knife factories in the area are famous among foreign tourists, who can tour the production process. Tojiro is one of them. But please check more if you can find something that you like. If you are a big fan of Japanese kitchen knives and are interested in this artisan town, you should visit from Tokyo. However, please ensure that the factory you aim at is available before you go there. For details on open factories in the area, please go to the following site.
Finally
There are many craft towns throughout Japan where artisans' skills shine. However, in metalworking, such as cutlery used daily, no town except the Tsubame-Sanjo area seems to produce elaborate, precise, and high-quality products.
It is usually a one-week course that begins with an arrival at Narita or Haneda Airport, a few nights in Tokyo, sightseeing in Kyoto or Osaka, and then the return trip to The Hokuriku Arch Pass via Nagano or Hokuriku to reach Kansai can also visit the area by taking a slight detour. Including these elements in your itinerary will add color to your trip. I hope this information is helpful to you.
Local Favorites
Hegisoba is a buckwheat noodle made with a seaweed called funori for as a binder and served in a thin wooden box called a hegi. This local dish is said to have originated in the Uonuma region, born from the fusion of Niigata Prefecture's textile culture and soba food culture. The seaweed used to bind the buckwheat makes it very firm and fresh. Please give it a try when you visit the area. There are also soba restaurants in Tokyo that claim to serve “hegisoba,” so you can also try that.
It is so wonderful that Japan supports the traditional arts of its history, I wish countries in the west did the same❕
Just reading your newsletter and encountering this craftsmanship somehow made me feel happy. My husband is running in a marathon in Niigata this coming weekend but I will not be going with him. Maybe next year!