#129 Itinerary/Hakone One-Day Excursion

How to enjoy Hakone most effectively in autumn when the sun sets early.

Hakone, Mt. Fuji, and Nikko are some of the must-see tourist destinations in the suburbs of Tokyo. Hakone is by far the most popular of the three. Mt Fuji and hot springs are all foreign tourists want to experience. The most significant advantage of all is that Hakone is an easy one-day trip from Tokyo, and in some cases, it is not impossible to use it as a relay point to Kyoto or Osaka. This week, I'd like to show you the best route and time of day based on my experience looking over the area last week.

Owakudani viewed from the Hakone ropeway.

Hakone's origin from a geological perspective

Hakone is an active volcano in Japan that was formed around 300,000 years ago. Its last major eruption occurred about 3,000 years ago, and more minor eruptions have since followed. The Hakone caldera, created by an enormous eruption 10,000 years ago, is home to hot springs and fumaroles. While primarily dormant, the volcano remains closely monitored for volcanic activity. Hakone is also culturally significant, attracting tourists with its natural beauty and geothermal features.

Therefore, if you take a train or bus from Odawara up to Lake Ashi, which is 723 meters above sea level, and then look down on Lake Ashi from the outer rim of the lake, you can see its caldera in your hand. Proving Hakone's importance as a geopark is Owakudani, where sulfur-laden mounds are constantly rising.

The Concept of an Itinerary as a Geopark

It is easy to consider Hakone a mere tourist attraction close to Tokyo. However, considering it more comprehensively, as a large geopark formed by volcanic activity, it becomes more than just a tourist attraction. The itinerary I am proposing here aligns with this concept.

Furthermore, when traveling in Hakone by public transportation, frequent transfers and delays due to congestion are factors to consider. The situation change is why this itinerary got into minutes. Frequent transfers can affect the second half of the itinerary. Although I have planned this itinerary with some leeway, I would like you to be on time. Also, this itinerary will not apply to weekends, particularly in autumn. Please understand that this is only for weekdays.

Attractions

1. Approach to Lake Ashi:

The difference in elevation between Hakone-Yumoto and Lake Ashi is 574 meters. There are various routes by car, but the bus bound for Moto-Hakone via Hakone-Shindo marked with "R" is the smoothest. The bus climbs steeply up the mountain. If your timing is good, you can enjoy the beautiful autumn leaves. The ride takes about 30 minutes. Depending on the bus, you may be able to reach Hakone Shrine in a single trip, which is very convenient. Please go to the bus network information in Hakone here.

The bus stops in front of Hakone-Yumoto Station. Please get on the bus with the correct destination and bus number.

2. Hakone Shrine

Entrance to Hakone Shrine. Surrounded by 1000-year-old cedar trees.

Hakone Shrine, founded in 757, is the center of ancient local mountain worship. It is also famous as a power spot, believed to be beneficial for good fortune, traffic safety, and fulfilling one's wishes. Stepping into the precincts of Hakone Shrine, you will feel cedar trees that are said to be 1,000 years old, creating a solemn atmosphere.

Hakone Shrine

3. Pirates cruise ship

If the weather permits, you can enjoy a spectacular view of Mt. Fuji between Moto Hakone and Togendai. The first class rooms are also available for an additional 800 yen per person, subject to availability. You have better access to a good view if you are on board in the first class. Please stay on the ship's right side for the autumn leaves season.

When boarding a pirate ship, I want you to arrive at the boarding area 10 minutes before departure time.

4. The Hakone Ropeway

You can quickly enjoy Hakone's varied features, from the cityscape to the spectacular views of Lake Ashi and Mount Fuji to Owakudani, which reminds one of hell. However, the situation is subject to change since the weather changes rapidly.

Autumn leaves viewed from the Hakone Ropeway.

5. Owakudani Valley

Owakudani is a volcanic valley known for its active geothermal activity. It features hot springs, steam vents, and sulfurous fumes, creating a dramatic and otherworldly landscape. Visitors can enjoy scenic views of Mount Fuji (on clear days), explore the area via hiking trails, and taste the famous black eggs, which are boiled in the hot springs and turned black due to the sulfur. The following video is quoted from Kurotamagokan HP.

6. the Hakone Tozan Railway

The Hakone Tozan Railway is a scenic mountain railway in Hakone, Japan, that connects Odawara Station to Hakone-Yumoto Station and further up to Gora. It is famous for its steep gradient and picturesque views, making it one of Japan's most scenic train journeys. The line features a series of switchbacks and tunnels, which allow the train to navigate the steep terrain of the Hakone mountains. It is trendy in the spring and autumn when the landscape is adorned with cherry blossoms or vibrant autumn foliage.

Hakone Tozan Railways

Between Hakone-Yumoto and Gora, there is an 80-bar mill grade, the steepest in Japan. This elevation gain of 80 meters for every 1,000 meters traveled is extremely rare among Japanese railroads. Three switchbacks are in the mere 9-kilometer section, making it a delightful route for railroad enthusiasts.

7. Onsen (hot spring)

If you want a hot spring bath before leaving Hakone, "Hakone Yuryo" is suitable. A shuttle bus leaves every 10 to 20 minutes from Hakone-Yumoto Station, and private baths are available. It is worth considering for those who do not like Japanese-style public baths. Private baths are available in three sizes, but you must reserve them in advance.

The entrance of Hakone Yuryo.

The facility does not allow bathing in swimsuits or with towels wrapped around your body, so families must be grouped. Please decide how you will group and use two rooms.

8. Inbound Express

After warming up and relaxing in the hot springs, the big challenge will be how to return to Tokyo quickly and at a time that is still possible. The express train leaves Hakone-Yumoto at 17:02 and arrives at Shinjuku at 18:28. It would be a good idea to buy a quick snack around the Hakone-Yumoto station and get on the train. You will have time to eat dinner without difficulty after arriving at Shinjuku.

Points to note

1. It is better to buy a Hakone Pass even for a single day (when going from Shinjuku). There are places in Hakone where you can ride with SUICA, but if you do not have a pass, you will have to buy a ticket each time, which wastes time. At the pirate ship boarding area, some tourists were rushing to buy tickets just before the departure time. The Hakone Pass is available in 2-day and 3-day passes, but even for a day trip, the pass is more accessible if you take the Odakyu train from Shinjuku and back.

   

   Hakone Free Pass is essential.

2. If you buy a single ticket to Kyoto or Osaka, buy it all through. I once talked with a tourist who left Tokyo in the morning for Kyoto by Shinkansen in the evening while I showed him around Tokyo. Leaving Tokyo in the morning for a full day of sightseeing in Hakone and then taking the Shinkansen to Kyoto will take a long time. Visiting Hakone in one day is very tiring because of the many transfers.

3. One thing to note about the Shinkansen to Kyoto is that the "Kodama" stops at all stations, and most of the trains terminate at Nagoya and require a transfer. In this sense, taking the following two "Hikari" trains is better.

   *Hikari 649/ Odawara: 16:07/ Kyoto: 18:12

   *Hikari 653/ Odawara: 18:07/ Kyoto: 20:12

4. Odakyu has conventional and limited express trains, but the relatively less expensive express trains are the best. There are two main ways to get to Odawara and Hakone-Yumoto from Tokyo Station: by taking the Shinkansen bullet train or a local train on the JR line or by taking the Odakyu limited express train directly from Shinjuku to Hakone-Yumoto. The Shinkansen is faster but more expensive, and the transfer at Odawara Station is more complicated. If you are staying in Shinjuku or Shibuya, taking the Odakyu limited express is recommended. There are two trains every hour from Shinjuku, and those with a red mark under the timetable are observation cars. Although it is difficult to get a seat, if you can, you can enjoy the view from the driver's point of view. In that case, you only need to purchase a separate express ticket for the Hakone Pass—a limited express ticket from Shinjuku to Hakone-Yumoto costs 1,500 yen. You can buy the express ticket at Shinjuku Station or on the Internet. To reserve an observation car, you must make reservations from 10:00 a.m. one month before boarding.

5. The bottleneck in Hakone sightseeing is the bus route. To visit Hakone, you have to go up to Lake Ashi from Hakone-Yumoto, which is the entrance to Hakone. There is a way to take a mountain railroad or a cable car, but it is more effective to take a bus to Lake Ashi. Therefore, my itinerary is to visit Lake Ashi first and then take a pirate ship or a ropeway to go around the lake. If you use the bus on the way back from Lake Ashi, you will lose control of the time because of the congestion on Route 1. I would like you to please use the bus on your outward journey. On a recent visit, the 9:00 a.m. bus from Hakone-Yumoto was very crowded even though it was a Tuesday. On weekends, you have to wait for the next bus. Because of this, you should move to arrive at Hakone-Yumoto as early as you can.

Finally

I visited Hakone in the autumn season for the first time in a long time, and my biggest concern was the crowds. The transportation system is hectic, and if you want to eat at a satisfactory restaurant, you must be prepared to wait a long time. To avoid this, start as early as possible and finish at restaurants as early as possible, aiming for the 11:00 a.m. opening time. In late November, the sun sets at 4:30 p.m., so there is little time left for sightseeing. In Hakone, unlike in Tokyo, it is difficult to escape to other routes, so time of day is everything regarding transportation and meals. I hope you will find my itinerary helpful.